Pennsylvania is home to some of the most outstanding trout water in all the country.
Anglers from far and wide flock to the Keystone State in search of trout, and for good reason! Our waters abound with brooks, browns, and rainbows as the commonwealth boasts more miles of trout stream than any other state except Alaska. It’s no shock that Pennsylvania is truly a destination fishery for many.
The thing is, most anglers associate the famous spring and limestone waters of central PA with these great fishing opportunities. Here are four spots in the western part of the state that can rival anything else Pennsylvania has to offer!
Located in Lawrence County, a bit north of Pittsburgh, sits Neshannock. Over two and a half miles of delayed harvest water bring anglers in, but it’s the quality of trout that keeps them coming back. A very active TU chapter, along with a Keystone Select designation, makes for tremendous fishing opportunities. Stopping in to Neshannock Creek Fly Shop can get folks up-to-date info on everything that’s hatching and which flies are fishing best!
Tucked in the heart of the Laurel Highlands is Meadow Run. This mountain freestone stream has a 2.2-mile section of delayed harvest, artificial lures only that features some outstanding summer fishing. Cool tributaries and excellent hatches make Meadow a can’t-miss fishing destination for anglers throughout summer. As an added bonus, private trout clubs that own property in headwater streams flowing into Meadow stock gigantic fish that sometimes wash into the main stem.
If wide streams with plenty of bug life and few things to obstruct a back cast appeal to you, then venture to Oil Creek in Venango County. A well-maintained bike trail parallels this gem, making it extremely accessible. Large browns haunt the deep pools of this Keystone Select stream and the summer caddis hatches are intense enough to bring them up to the surface to feed. Wildwood Outfitters, near the town of Franklin, provides guiding opportunities as well as updated information on stream flow and fishing reports.
While 4.4-miles of fly fishing only designated stream are the main attraction, excellent fishing abounds in this second Laurel Highlands stream. The French and Indian War started in the headwaters of Dunbar, and now native brook trout teem in the shadows of these historic glens and hills. In the project water, stream improvement devices have created superb habitat that holds fish all year!
Fly fishers looking to get their summer fix need not focus solely on the famous waters that litter the central corridor of the state. Western Pennsylvania holds its own and then some with terrific fishing!
Not everyone can afford name brand fly fishing gear at the full price tag. I certainly didn’t when I started out. So you’ve got to work with what you got. Start out with the absolute essentials and add to your collection month after month. Grab yourself a nice affordable fly rod, reel, line, and flies that fit within your budget.
Purchase state fishing license
Don’t leave home without a registered state fishing license within the state that you are fishing. The Fish and Boat Commission don’t typically let people off easy for forgetting one’s license on the kitchen counter. Fines are at least double the cost of the license and can be over a couple hundred dollars. I probably don’t have to say this but fish legally and get a state fishing license. Your purchase will support conservation and the active management of your local streams.
Select a fishing destination
When you’re going to spend a few hours fishing a local stream, river, pond, or lake it’s a good idea to scout it out and get to know the area. Even if it’s a quick Google search, see if it people in the past have done well there or if it has sufficient casting room. Take some time and look at the weather, water level, and temperatures to see if it’s in good condition to fish. You can find this online simply by searching the name of the water and then add “water level” into your search such as, “Little Lehigh River Water Level.”
Another reason why this consideration is important is that where you choose to fish will influence what type of gear you need. If I go to a small mountain stream in search of 9-inch brook trout I won’t be needing a 10 ½ foot Spey casting rod. Bringing that monster of a fly rod would be overkill. The stream is much too small and much better suited for an 8-foot 3 weight fly rod.
Find out whether you need permission from the land owner’s to fish
Worst thing to do is illegally trespass onto someone’s land to access some water. Avoid any streams with “no trespassing” or “no fishing” posted signs. That being said, many streams have public access points that the land owners or state have made available to all anglers.
Research public access points to the water
You’ve picked out a trout stream and know you can fish it but where can you actually go in there and access the water. Best bet is to call a local fly shop or fishing shop to get some intel. Even a quick search online could reveal some detailed directions to fishing the water.
Find public parking areas and driving directions
Without any prior research finding a place to park that is often a struggle in the moment. Before heading out in the family car have a place in mind you know you can publicly park. Having your car towed because you parked on private property is a worst case scenario. Fortunately, there is usually a public parking zone near the access points and are sometimes marked by fishing authorities. Other times you’ll need to ask around at local shops and see where other anglers go.
Decide what fish species you will be fishing
Will you be fishing for bass, trout, pike, panfish, tarpon, etc.? Knowing what fish you are targeting decides your equipment and what fly fishing supplies you need. Once you focus on, say, fly fishing for trout then you can move on to selecting the proper gear you’ll need to catch them. Fly fishing for different fish may require totally different gear. If I were to go fly fishing for bass I would prefer a heavier weight rod, like a 6-7 weight 10-foot fly rod, and some bigger streamers or popper flies. On the other hand, if I were to go fly fishing for trout I would prefer a 4-5 weight 9 ½ foot fly rod.
Choose the right fly rod and reel
Each fly rod and reel are made a particular purpose in mind which makes them better suited in specific conditions than other fly rods and reels. The different set of fly rod weights and combinations of length do matter. Here’s a helpful basic guide to choosing the right rod.
Fly Fishing for Bass -- 5 to 8 weight fly rod to help cast heavy bass bugs or streamers great distances. Choose a fly rod that’s at least 8 ½ feet long.
Fly Fishing for Trout -- 2 to 7 weight fly rod. Lighter weight rods for lighter patterns and heavier fly rods for bigger fish and heavier flies. Depending on the stream width you may need a long rod. Fly rods for trout are commonly at least 8 ½ feet.
Large heavy flies -- Heavy flies are more difficult to cast on light weight rods (1 to 4 weight) and are controlled much better on rods with weights of 5 or more. Think heavily streamers and big popper flies as ‘large heavy flies’.
Small light flies -- Typical ‘small light’ flies are nymphs, streamers, and dry flies that weigh very little. Think an Adams Parachute or Prince Nymph or Woolly Bugger. These flies are cast accurately and controlled well on fly rods from a 2 weight or more.
Small streams/rivers -- Small streams don’t often require longer rods. But nothing’s going to stop you from using a longer fly rod. It’s really up to you. However, if spaces are cramped and there is brush along your back, having a longer rod might make it more difficult for you to present your flies. With a shorter length you can still reach the trout pools and worry less about getting tangled in trees. Shorter rods make fly fishing a little more manageable with small streams.
Large streams/rivers -- Longer fly rods are a necessity on large rivers and streams. That extra few inches or feet will make a noticeable distance in how much water you can cover. You’ll be able to cast farther and get the reach you need to nymph large pools effectively.
With all that being said, you don’t have to have a different rod for every little thing. Many fly anglers have but one rod and use it in all situations. It’s really up to you and your budget. Having the proper equipment only makes it easier. Personally, I only had one fly rod for years until I began to fly fish larger rivers and required a longer rod. I went from using an 8 ½ foot 4 weight to a 10 ½ foot 4 weight. Why the change? Those extra two feet of rod length help me cast farther and reach pools when nymphing that I couldn’t otherwise get to with the 8 ½ foot.
Decide whether you’ll need waders or not
This is a simple question of will you need to enter the water at any point and do you mind getting wet? In the heat of the summer it might be enjoyable to dip your toes in the cool water. On the other hand, wet-wading during the winter is absolutely crazy. In other cases, you will only be casting from the bank or from a boat so waders wouldn’t be necessary.
Familiarize yourself with the state fishing regulations and limitations for that water
States and specific sections of streams have varying rules and regulations. Many times, streams will have a designated “Artificial Lures” only section that prohibits the use of baitfish or fishbait. Regulations often post of a “Delayed Harvest” or “Catch And Release Only” for sections of water that are carefully managed by the state. They may even have limitations on how long your fly leader can be or how many flies you can have tied to your line. Some states allow up to 3-flies while others restrict any more than 2-flies. Knowing all this can be the difference of a couple of hundred dollars in fines and a bad headache. Read up on the local regulations before leaving so you can prepare properly.
Fly Fishing Gear For Beginners:
Fly Leaders
Fly fishing leaders are a tapered section of line that is attached to your main colored fly line. Whether you hand-make your leader or buy a pre-tapered one from a fly shop, these are absolutely necessary. The tapering of this line from a stiff butt section to a thin front end helps carry the energy from your cast into the presentation of your fly. Without the tapering, your line would be a limp noodle and your presentations would fall short.
There are many different sizes of leaders from 0x, 1x, 2x, 3x, 4x, 5x, 6x, and 7x. The lower the number the thicker and more stiff the line is. For example, the 0x would be ideal for large fish and heavy flies while the 6x would excel in presenting light dry fly patterns.
Fly Box
Fly boxes are there to make it easier for you to carry your collection of fly fishing flies and keep you organized enough to find the flies you need. Having a decent fly box keeps you organized and your investment of flies safe.
Fishing Pliers
Fishing pliers are a necessary tool that gives fly anglers extra reach and a better grip to unhook tricky fish and get us out of sticky situations. For more ‘idealist’ fishermen fishing pliers are used to pinch hook barbs.
Line Nippers
Line nippler are a necessary tool for all fly anglers. They are used to snip the excess line off when attaching flies, new tippet, or leader onto your line. Simple nail clippers from the dollar store can do the trick, or if you prefer to get the Rollex of fishing equipment you can purchase hundred dollar clippers from large brands.
Strike Indicators
Strike indicators are the fly fishing communities version of a conventional fishing bobber. Wool yarn, dense foam, and dry flies are common fly fishing strike indicators. Fly anglers use these in what’s called ‘suspension rigs’ where flies are placed below the indicator. When the indicator makes an abnormal movement or twitch, the hook is set on what can be a fish or structures in the water. In most cases, people who are fly fishing nymphs, or the act of ‘nymphing’, use strike indicators.
Polarized Sunglasses
Polarized sunglasses are sunglasses that remove the reflective glare and polarized light from the water which will allow you to see more vividly into the water and see water depth, rocks, fish, and more. This is an edge you can have when fly fishing that helps you catch more fish.
Split Shots
When you are fly fishing nymphs or streamers, split shots are additional weights that can be added to your fly line to help your flies punch through the currents, dive faster, and sink deeper into the water. For experienced fly anglers, split shots are a fundamental tool in their arsenal for giving the best presentation possible.
Hat
Hats are a simple piece of equipment that requires very little effort. For sunny days, having a good hat that covers your face and or neck from sunburn is something you don’t leave at home. It can also keep you cold, warm, and protected from the weather and insects.
Rubber Fishing Net
Rubber nets not only look awesome in photographs, they are the most fish-friendly type of net available. The rubber net doesn’t get stuck or tears apart delicate fish gills. Traditionally, conventional fishing nets with knotted netting tears through fish gills like a saw and ends up fatally injuring the fish that is already under a lot of stress.
Snacks
Snacks for long days on the water are a must. Nothing is worse than having to cut your day short for a hungry stomach. Bring a few protein bars, fruit, sandwiches, and a few hard candies.
Bottled Water
Your body always needs plenty of water so pack one into your travel pack and leave a few extras in your vehicle for emergencies.
Sunscreen
For those blue skies and sunny days sunscreen is a simple solution to not showing up to the office on Monday with silly tan lines and a sore neck. Wear environmentally friendly sunscreen to help prevent the leaching of more harmful chemicals into the water. Aquatic ecosystems are incredibly fragile and already have enough pollution to fight as is.
Tippet
Fly fishing tippet is transparent line that you connect to your fly leader from your colored fly line to your fly. As compared to fly fishing leader, tippet is not tapered and is consistently the same thickness all the way through. When your leader wears down nearing the thick end attach some tippet to continue tying your flies on.
First Aid Kit
Be prepared for the worst or even the simplest of injuries. You don’t have to pack it in with you, but it’s always recommended to have one in the vehicle. Throw in a few rolls of toilet paper, too. When nature calls there isn’t always a public bathroom around for quick access.
Dry Flies
Have a solid selection of dry flies, flies that float on the surface, for when trout are keying in on insects on top, such as midges, mayfly duns or spinners, adult caddis, stoneflies, beetles, frogs, mice, cicadas, caterpillars, grasshoppers, and ants. Just have a few patterns of each insect hatch that are expected during the time you are fishing. Makes sense right? Don’t waste space and pack grasshoppers in the winter -- bring flies that imitate insects that are actively present.
Nymph Flies
Nymph larvae and pupae are the number one source of food for trout. Generally, trout aren’t always feeding off the top, either. They lay low right along the bottom and lazily pick up insects drifting by in the water. Since they won’t come to your dry flies on top, bring your flies to them by fishing nymphs. Target deep pools, runs, riffles, seams, and troughs.
Streamer Flies
Streamers are meaty patterns that imitate protein-rich baitfish, minnows, leeches, and other large underwater prey. This flies are incredibly effective when stripped or swung through deep pools, runs, riffles, and along shelves. Larger fish love to take distressed minnows and lonely baitfish whenever they get the chance at an easy meal. They didn’t get that big by eating just tiny insects.
Nobody wants to talk about it because we just want to let the good times roll, but the truth is high summer is fast approaching.
It’s true: every week the temperatures creep upwards of 70, and then 80 degrees. With each marginal increase in air temp, the water trout live in warms as well. While that might not be an issue now, it will soon become one. Trout don’t wait until the dog days to find their summer relief spots, however. They start now, so adjust fishing locations accordingly!
Find The Sweet Relief!
Trout are constantly adjusting their holding zones. In some cases it might only be moving a few feet to account for difference in current speed and water depth, but other times it can mean moving hundreds of yards up or down stream. Sometimes, that move is done in order to find the sweet relief of cooler springs. This is probably the first thing to focus on when trout shift to their warm water lies.
Not all springs, or stream tributaries, are created equal, however. Spend some time taking stream temperature readings from multiple locations to find where the coolest water flows enter your favorite trout stream. Odds are fish will congregate at or near these locations to take in the refreshing coolness.
Trout Like Shade Just Like We Do!
Imagine if you will: it’s a hot summer day and you’re out cutting the grass. You decide to let your dog out to enjoy the nice weather. Where does your dog decide to lie down? Odds are it isn’t in front of the tractor or in the middle of the yard subject to the most direct sun. Your dog is smart (feel free to let him/her them know I said that) and goes straight for the shade. Trout are no different!
Even a modest degree or two decrease in the shade will be a great benefit to trout. They will find, and hold, in areas of shade that provide this reprieve from the heat. It also doesn’t hurt that shade is often found near the banks, and there’s plenty of food on the banks that makes shaded runs the total package!
Go Down Deep
Rays of the sun can only penetrate so far into water. Unless your favorite trout stream has deep holes measuring 15 feet or more, odds are even the stream bottom won’t be immune to warming from the sun. Despite this, the deeper you go the cooler it will be!
How do you tell if the water is deep?
Is there a color change? Gravel that's six inches from the surface is much easier to see than gravel six feet from the surface. Varying depths with result in different color tones visible to the angler. Learn which ones signify deep water and focus on them.
Does the water suddenly go from fast to slow? If yes, it could signal an underwater drop-off!
Is your nymph rig all of a sudden never getting snagged or bouncing on the bottom? If so, odds are you've found a deep pocket or hole. Adjust your rig a little deeper and get ready for some action!
This is probably the adjustment that fish make before anything else. When the steady rains of spring cease and water recedes, trout will instinctively look for the safety of deeper water. This provides some semblance of safety from birds of prey, but it also gets them in cooler water when shallow riffles and runs heat up. Find the deepest of holes, and you’ll find trout.
Don’t wait until the dog days of summer to adjust fishing techniques. Water begins to warm long before that, and trout react accordingly. It’s best if anglers do the same!
Trout fishing can be a tough business! It’s why books have been written about it, guides focus on educating anglers, and fly shops make their money on helping make folks better fishers. Some of our mistakes are correctable, though! Here’s a list of seven common mistakes made by anglers and some help to correct them.
Just Cut It!
Tangle ups happen, and some days they happen often. It’s not your fault! The snarl of tippet, weights, flies, branches, and who knows what else happens to us all. Where anglers error is in the handling of said tangle. Don’t sit there and waste time gently threading wrapped tippet through tiny gaps in leader. Just cut the whole thing and re-tie! It’s almost always faster this way.
Keep Moving
Imagine, if you would: you’re fishing upstream and a particularly juicy spot comes into view. You continue casting as you inch closer and closer to the honey hole. Once there, it’s everything you dreamed of! For the first ten minutes fish come easy. A half hour later and the catching is a bit more sporadic, and an hour later the fish are all put down. Keep moving! Too often do we fall into the trap of catching fish at a great spot and anchoring down there for too long. Catch the fish that are there to be caught, and then go find some more.
Adjust
Flies, weights, indicator, tippet size, and sometimes even fishing locations need tinkered with on the fly. In the name of laziness anglers will fish flies too long or refuse to change their depth and weight, and to their own detriment. If something isn’t working, change it! If a stream is off that day, drive somewhere else! Otherwise angling efforts are tantamount to beating your head against the wall.
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Ah yes, the Internet. Read any message board or Facebook group and you’ll get hundreds of conflicting opinions. Stream X is blown out, Stream Y doesn’t have any fish, Stream Z has drakes hatching all day every day! Trust your gut, and stick to your plan. Watch weather patterns and stream gauges to make decisions on when and where to fish. Don’t make the mistake of taking Internet information as gospel truth, because remember it’s hard to accurately report on fishing conditions from behind a keyboard!
Watch Where You Stand
Perhaps the most common mistake made by trout fishers is their position in the stream itself. Fish hold in all sorts of water, so standing in knee-high riffles to fish an opposite bank might seem like a good idea, but in reality fish are being spooked. Fish everything that looks even somewhat promising before walking through it. You’ll be shocked at how many more fish you hook into.
Bring A Net
Before my guiding days I was often guilty of leaving the net at home except for steelhead trips. “Trout are hardly ever big enough to justify a net!” On the surface this is a true statement, but the truth is a net is a tremendous help when unhooking and handling fish. Having the fish rest safely in the rubber basket of a net while we get out cameras, phones, or unhook the fish is a great help to both us and the fish. Don’t make the mistake of leaving home without it!
Leave The Gills Alone!
Join any fly fishing-centric Facebook group and you’ll see plenty of fish pictures, both good and bad. It’s fun to marvel at other people’s catches and see some beautiful fish, but what sometimes isn’t so good is the handling of trout. A very common mistake made is in the way we handle a caught trout. Hands should always be wet before touching a fish and never under any circumstance should our fingers find their way into the fish’s gills.
Spring fly fishing offers wonderful catches for fly anglers to catch trout coming out of their winter lethargicness. As the water begins to warm all sorts of aquatic insects begin to hatch, and with it, a rush of fish activity. It can be hard to select out of the hundreds of patterns available commercially the seasoned flies that truly do work above all else.
Everyone has there favorite fly patterns and here are 15 that we rely on to constantly catch fish for us.
Adams Parachute is one of the most versatile dry fly patterns available. Its muted colors and silhouette allow it to imitate a vast variety of insects such as caddis, mayflies, midges, and even some stoneflies. All of this makes it such a great fly to have for spring.
Blue-Winged Olives are a staple diet for trout in the spring. Nearly every day in the mid-afternoon you will see scattered to full-blown BWO hatches. We prefer the parachute style of the blue-winged olive because it can imitate emergers, duns, and spinners.
Elk Hair fly patterns imitate the bread and butter of a trout’s diet, caddis. As one of the greatest patterns ever created, even the most selective trout can’t resist. Overall, its insect profile and ability to float high gives the Elk Hair fly credibility as a go-to pattern for nearly every serious angler.
The hallmark of early season hatches is the BWO. Some guides even say winter isn’t over until they see their first solid BWO hatch. Since it’s a fairly thin-bodied fly, the parachute adds a nice touch to help anglers see it out there in the current. A tip for some extra visibility is to paint the parachute post with a red or pink sharpie so it stands out even more!
Caught from a freestone stream in Eastern Pennsylvania on a Tungsten Missile Nymph. We drifted our dropper nymph rig through the seam of a deep run.
Many say that using Squirmy Wormies is cheating, but aquatic worms are totally natural and are a select part of a trout’s diet. Squirmy Wormies offer the best of both worlds, they get down and know how to wiggle. Many anglers use this fly as their first and last resort. Add it as a dropper or your lead fly.
The WD40 Emerger mimics helpless emerging insects leaving their shucks. Trout find it an easy meal to pick up and eat these stranded treats. We place this unweighted nymph close to the top of our nymphing rigs so that they stay in the upper water columns. Couple this with the Blue Winged Olive Parachute and Blue Winged Olive for a macho selection.
This flashy blue-winged olive baetis nymph pattern is one of our absolute favorites. Deep pools with fast currents require nymphs like this one with a slim profile and a heavy bead to dive fast to the bottom. Fish tend to hang close to the bottom because of the slow current that is found there. So, we use the Tungsten Missile nymph to penetrate these feeding zones quickly and provide an excellent presentation.
Hare’s Ear Nymphs are just as effective in stillwater as they are in streams and rivers. Their dull colors and general buggy appearance makes it easy to imitate mayfly nymphs, caddis pupae, midge larvae, etc.
Mercury Baetis nymphs are a light pattern used to drift near the surface when trout are ignoring dry flies and are focusing on emerging nymphs just below. The sparkle bead adds just enough flash and imitates the gases that build up within the emerging nymphs’ shucks, which helps them ascend to the surface.
We love to include this olive pattern into our nymphing rigs on days when blue-winged olives duns are apparent on the surface. Trout will often ignore these freshly hatched BWO duns on top and target the freely drifting nymphs below.
A large portion of a trout’s diet is always going to consist of midge larva, which makes Zebra Midges a must. Fish this high in the water column or near the bottom of your multi-fly rig. We typically have this pattern in the middle right above a big and heavy stonefly pattern.
Countless times it has proven in streams with large populations of stoneflies the Pat's Rubber Legs nymph is an irresistible pattern to trout. This stonefly pattern does have a tough time diving down to the bottom because of its large profile, so we like to add some extra weight to our line with split shot or heavily weighted nymphs.
When the rain comes or the snow melts, and trout streams are gushing with more water than they can handle, throw this streamer with confidence. During high water conditions, trout will push towards the banks, so an effective technique can be fishing the conehead bugger from the middle of the river back towards the shore.
The Lunchable minnow imitates all sorts of minnows and baitfish that you may find in the water, which makes it a fantastic and effective fly pattern to have. This is one pattern that will not disappoint. The Lunchable streamer is great for spring runoff and is perfect for bouncing around large boulders and tight spaces fish congregate.
“This fly can mimic leeches and small bait fish. This is a big fish fly. Some of the biggest fish we have stuck over the years have been on this fly! I will fish this on a streamer rig, usually a two streamer rig. I love fishing this one under an indicator as a point fly or as the bottom fly in a three fly rig. This is another great swinging fly when placed under the indicator. I’ll also add some strips with a pause for some outstanding takes. Ella’s Beast also does very well in still waters.” ~ Joe Shafer
Dry fly fishing is an addicting aspect of trout fishing. It’s hard not to argue the visual appeal it has with the explosive takes which makes it a blast! Getting to that point where the faint fishy silhouette emerges and your dry fly disappears into the mouth of trout requires a lot of practice controlling your dry fly presentation.
Let’s take a look at the basics to dry fly fishing and how to limit drag, when to cast, when to use emerger flies, where to cast, and our favorite dry fly patterns we’d recommend you try.
Selecting The Right Dry Fly Pattern
There are a countless number of dry fly patterns out there for nearly every conceivable situation. While having a good presentation is more important that the perfect pattern, it still doesn’t hurt to match the hatch.
Selecting the right dry fly can be broken down 3 steps for a near-perfect match.
Step 1: Shape
Imitate what you find around the stream. Look in the brush, grass, under leaves, etc. to find flying insects. Are their any fishing rising? If so, get down close and observe the surface of the water for small insects drifting by.
Afterward, go through your fly box and find a fly pattern that would represent the shape or silhouette of the insect.
Step 2: Size
This does not need to be an exact science, but the closer you are to imitating the natural size of the insects hatching, the more likely you may deceive a tricky trout.
The general size is a great place to start, but in large hatches, sometimes variety proves essential. In some cases, when matching the hatch perfectly, the volume of flies passing the target fish doesn’t place your imitation as a high priority.
In this case, increasing or decreasing the size of the fly will give the fish a different perspective towards your fur and feathers, increasing your odds.
Step 3: Color
After selecting the shape and size appropriate in matching the naturals swarming around you, the last factor in matching the hatch is the shade of the fly.
The term shade, in this case, refers to the overall color scheme of the fly.
This again does not need to be exact. If the naturals are tan, then choose a tan pattern. If the naturals are black, then choose a dark pattern. This, coupled with the other two prerequisite factors discussed prior will generally deliver on most streams.
When To Fish Emergers
When hatches start to go full swing, trout will often target the emerging insects. You'll notice trout rising with a splash or just breaching the surface.
Rise with a splash: Fish are chasing swimming emergers that are racing to the surface.
Breaching the surface: Taking emergers that are attempting to or have broken through the surface film.
Water disturbance but no breaching: Fish are eating nymphs that are making their way to the surface.
Once this occurs, trout will rarely deviate from eating emergers, which will make it extremely difficult to catch anything without an emerger pattern.
Emerger patterns are typically quite lite -- and are designed that way for many reasons:
Hang just in the surface film -- insects (dead or alive) gather within this thin water column.
Drift naturally with the current -- emerging insects typically drift aimlessly in the water column with the current as they take to the surface. A lite fly will do the same.
The Upstream Cast
An upstream cast is making a cast directly up into the current when you are downstream of your target. This will allow the current to drift your fly back towards you. For new fly anglers this is one of the most simple casts to perfect because slack naturally builds in your fly line as it floats downstream.
After your cast immediately begin to retrieve the slack line so you have enough line tenison to immediately set the hook if a fish strikes.
This particular cast is a wonderful way to sneak up on trout from behind. It’s best to cast from an angle to allow only your fly to be the first thing the trout sees. It’s best to avoid having your line cast directly over of the trout which often leads to scaring them. You can prevent this by casting at an angle upstream with just enough line out that no line overlaps the fish.
The Downstream Cast
On the reverse side, we have the downstream cast which can be the only suitable fishing option for some pools of water that are difficult to access from below or off to the sides. The downstream cast is made well above your target so that the water carries your fly right to the fish. We love this cast because it is an easy way to ensure the fly is the first thing the trout sees rather than the line.
When you make the downstream cast, you want to allow some slack to form on the water. You can add slack with two different methods, 1. feeding line through your guides as the water pulls it or 2. a pile cast.
Option number one is quite simple. Pull some line off your reel and make a short cast downstream. As the current begins to pull your line away from you slowly let that extra line you pulled off slide through your fingers and down your rod guides. Keep control over how much slack you let out so you can be ready for if a fish strikes your dry fly.
To perform a pile cast aim your cast high in the air like you’re casting to the treetops and stop your follow-through short so the line recoils back towards you and floats onto the water. This should create enough slack on the water for a dead drift.
The Cross Stream Cast
Here is where things can get tricky. When you cast across the stream your line begins to flow with all the multiple different currents that are present at the water's surface. All of this pushing and pulling on the line drags your dry fly all over the place like a rag doll, which makes it difficult to maintain a natural dead drift with your fly.
Cross stream casts will require you to actively mend your fly line either downstream or upstream to minimize drag.
Mending is, in its simplest form, the act of adjusting your fly so that it drafts through the water in a natural way. You make little adjustments to your line and fly that help it look more natural in the water. That means that your fly isn’t being pulled through the water by your fly line or skating across the water (unless you want it to do that).
Mending:Mending is the act of using your rod to pick up and reposition your line against the current the current to perfectly present your flies with minimal drag.
To do a basic mend, all you’re really doing is lifting up your rod (and your fly line) and moving the line upriver (or downriver, we’ll get to that), in order to eliminate drag.
The Adams Parachute Dry Fly is one pattern that deserves to be in every fly box. Parachute’s make it easy to see in rough water and abundant hatches with it’s highly visible post. It can imitate nearly everything from caddis to midges and almost every stage of mayfly.
Elk Hair fly patterns imitate the bread and butter of a trout’s diet, caddis. As one of the greatest patterns ever created, even the most selective trout can’t resist. Overall, its insect profile and ability to float high gives the Elk Hair fly credibility as a go-to pattern for nearly every serious angler.
Late April thru October, Stimulators are the key to a trout’s heart. Imitating not only stoneflies but also adult caddis and hoppers, Stimulators are the fine cuisine of attractor flies. We love to use this bulky fly in a dry dropper fly rig with a nymph dropped below. Never be caught with your pants down without a handful of Stimulators.
One of the best-known stonefly and hopper patterns that comes in loads of colors for high visibility. It is great for hopper-dropper rigs and takes high-fast water easily. It is also a wonderful dry dropper fly because of its dense foam body.
Blue Wing Olives or BWO’s or Baetis, whichever name it goes by, are one of the most important hatches. Parachute’s make it easy to see in rough water and abundant hatches with its highly visible post. Pair this with the common Blue Winged Olive for a macho combo. When it comes to selective trout, it helps to have a few versions of the Baetis pattern.
This fly imitates all sorts of mayfly, caddis, and midge lifecycles. Because the Klinkhammer is so versatile this pattern is perfect for small streams. Start by using this as a searching pattern by targeting seams, slow runs, and pocket water. Don’t be afraid to drop a small nymph off the back. You can even sink it and fish it with your favorite nymphs. Seriously, it works.
Known to many as a “fish locator”, the Royal Wulff is perfect for scoping out fish when you can’t see them. With a rooster-ton of hackle, this buggie fly can easily be fished in fast moving water. When we take trips to small brook trout filled streams in the mountains we take preference to this fly for its easy visibility and buoyancy.
A parachute style ant with a Hi-Viz para-post for high visibility in rough water. Perfect for little streams and riffles under overhanging branches and undercut banks.
An excellent adult midge pattern for streams, rivers, and stillwater fisheries. Typically, you’ll find swarms of these guys over slack water. Be sure to use a light tippet and target the slow-moving water following a pool.
A CDC blue-winged olive emerger that sits just within the surface film for when trout selectively take nymphs and emergers. Fish this at the top of a nymphing rig or by itself by targeting bubbly seams.
As you're tackling the deep pools and runs in your local streams with some nymph flies, strike indicators will eventually become necessary. These are nothing more than the fly fishing community's version of a bobber. Strike indicators allow you to keep your distance from trout and reach pools you wouldn't normally be able to fish.
Let's take a step-by-step approach to fly fishing nymphs with indicators.
Step 1 - Select Proper Indicator
There are different fly fishing indicators for nearly every situation. You’ll need to select the correct indicator for your needs and the water you’re fishing. If you are fishing heavy nymphs or fishing in fast water, add a Thingamabobber or large foam indicator. These strike indicators support heavier nymphs without being dragged down.
For lighter nymphs and slower currents, it would be best to use a wool indicator or a large dry fly. We prefer these over the heavier indicators because they make a soft presentation on the water without spooking nearby fish by smacking the water. In the chance that all you have are the more dense indicators, cast at least a few feet in front of the area you are targeting to avoid ruining your odds.
Step 2 - Judge Depth And Speed of the Water
Distance of Indicator on the Line Above Flies = Water Depth + Speed of the Water
This is an incredibly important part where a few inches can be the difference between catching fish and getting skunked. When fly fishing for trout with nymphs you want your flies near the bottom. Trout won’t make the effort to go to your flies so you need to go to them. If your flies are too high in the water column then you’re going right over their heads.
Judging the depth and speed of the water allows you to accurately place your indicator on your line to ensure that your nymphs drift along the bottom. With that being said, if you believe the pool you’re fishing is 5-feet deep you don’t want to place your indicator 5-feet above your flies.
What gives? It’s 5-feet deep so why don’t I make the line go 5-feet down? Because you forgot the second part of the equation, the speed of the water.
When your flies are in the water they won’t drift directly under the indicator but rather at an angle. The placement of your indicator should account for that angle and the extra line the nymphs need to drift close to the bottom.
Here’s a simple way to properly place your indicator:
Fast water - 1.5 to 2 times the depth of the water.
Slow water - 1 to 1.5 times the depth of the water.
Flash floods or runoff are extreme examples of fast water. In these harsh conditions, we targeted the slower edges and distanced our indicator at 1.5 - 2 times the depth of the water.
Let’s circle back to that pool we judged to be 5-feet deep. Assuming that the water is moving pretty quick, you’ll need to place your indicator at least 7.5-feet above your bottom fly. You don’t have to follow this rule exactly, but this is a good rule of thumb.
Step 3 - Place Indicator On Line
It’s as simple as it sounds, attach the indicator on your leader.
Step 4 - Fish! And Continuously Adjust
All done! Give it go and toss it around.
As you start to move from pool to pool, know that not all are the same depth and have the same water speed. The trick to successfully fishing indicators in fly fishing is to know when to adjust. Remember, your nymphs should be near the bottom. Slide it up or down your leader to add some slack or remove the excess line that would get your snagged on the bottom.
Even with the flash flood, we managed to hook a nice brown on a Dirty Hipster Nymph that we placed about 4.5-feet down from the indicator and fished a 3-foot deep pool along the bank.
There’s a way to gauge whether you have too much or too little line out.
Flies Get Quickly Swept Downstream -- Slide indicator up your leader to add more line.
Flies Are Constantly Get Snagged On Bottom -- Slide indicator down to remove the excess line.
Fly fishing indicators is something that you will master over time the more you use it. Get a good amount of practice using them. Always remember to adjust, adjust, and adjust. That’s the key to success and if you remember that -- you’re good.
Euro nymphs, or what some call tactical nymphs, come from the competitive side of the fly fishing community which depend on catching as many fish as possible within a timed contest. These barbless nymphs were developed for the European style of nymphing called Euro Nymphing.
https://youtu.be/uSVPlkue850
Here's a great live demonstration of the Euro Nymphing technique in a stream-setting from some fellow Pennsylvania fly anglers.
Euro Nymphing is a technique of maintaining strict control over your fly line in an effort to detect the slightest of fish strikes. Nymph anglers do this by reducing slack in their line by keeping the rod high with a near taught line. But, they keep just enough slack in their line to create a slight ‘bow’ that indicates a fish strike by that ‘bow’ spontaneously tightening. Once they see that bow straighten ever so slightly, they set the hook. Chances of success are really good in that the hook either lodges into a fishes mouth or a rock. Usually, it is a rock.
Nymphing in the European style is incredibly fun and does prove to catch a significant amount of fish. If you do give it a try, here are some of our favorite euro nymphing patterns that offer strong hook sets and help reduce snagging with their barbless hooks.
This competition style euro fly is designed to penetrate the water column quickly and get down to the strike zone and keep them in the strike zone. Tied with dense steel hooks and tungsten beads, they drop fast into feeding lanes. These flies feature a barbless hook and a very long claw point. Even without the barb, the elongated claw point helps you hook nearly every fish and hold them on firmly. Minimizing the handling of fish is important as well. Barbless hooks allow you to release a trout swiftly without doing any major harm to it.
An excellent all-purpose nymph pattern that features a long gap tactical jig hook for better hookups and improved euro nymphing. European nymphers needed flies that would ride along the bottom without getting snagged. Eventually, they came up with competition flies featuring an inward curvature that lessens the chance of a snag.
The rough and tumble appearance coupled with a jigged hook will fool trout everywhere caddis call home. The dark olive appearance takes it even another step further in imitating caddis larvae with a bit of flash. Jig hooks provide a better hook set and help reduce snagging on the bottom.
Rather than imitate naturals, this pattern is an attractor fly, which is designed to grab and hold a fish’s attention. In my own nymphing rigs, I either fish this single or coupled with another fly or two. When paired with another fly, I always make sure to put this nymph at the bottom of the rig.
A hot flashy nymph for fast and deep pools. As it is a jigged nymph, you can let the Newbury’s Dirty PT Hot Pink fly roll along the bottom with fewer risks of snags. Start by focusing your casts within fast currents that run directly into long, deep riffles. More importantly, because takes will be subtle, use a small visual indicator.
This variation of a prince nymph is great for two reasons, 1. it has tons of flash and 2. it offers lots of movement. Typically, we pair this pattern with bulky flies that get held up in the water column like squirmy worms. As a heavier jig nymph we throw this at the bottom of nymph rigs so it can drag the other flies down through fast flows.
For every fish that’s caught matching the hatch, there might be five more that are caught using a solid attractor nymph. Enter the B Smo’s Deep Purple. The curved jigged hook and rugged body make it perfect for tumbling freestone streams and wild trout. With its flashy purple body and tungsten bead, it gets down deep and grabs the attention of trout. We love to use this pattern as a prospecting fly to see where trout are holding.
We love this pattern for streams that have high populations of net-spinning caddifly larva. Lift up a few rocks and check your local streams. They are naturally a bright green color and net themselves against rocks in fast flow water.
UV is a perfect material for early season muddy water. If the trout can’t see our flies, they can’t eat them! The brushy nature of this maggot with the hotspot behind the bead add even more to a fly that should be on rigs across the country during this high water time of year.
There’s something about the thin, but flashy, tail that drives trout wild! It’s a slender pattern that’s built for sinking quick and this pattern is a staple among backcountry fishers from both the East and the West. On freestone streams with quick drifts and narrow windows, this is a fly to have. It has just enough flash for attracting and just a hint of a natural's body to fool over-fished trout.
If the looks of this fly don’t get you ready for warmer weather and swarms of mayflies nothing will! The prominent tail and two-toned head signify the always productive PMD (Pale Morning Dun), and fishers across the country have multiple versions of this classic in their fly box for good reason.
As a fly angler coming from Pennsylvania to Colorado and never before experiencing fly fishing a lake full of trout, it is a lot different than fishing Pennsylvania's limestone streams. Although, catching trout is not any more difficult.
If you are brand new to this concept of fly fishing for trout in lakes or just never got around to it, here are the basic tips that should help you catch some trout in those alpine lakes.
Where To Find Trout
In stillwater lakes trout tend to swim in pods and move continuously around the lake. So there will be sporadic periods of catching fish and then not catching fish as they continue on. You’ll just have to be patient as those trout pods make their way back around to your area.
Just like fishing a stream, location is incredibly important. However, finding good fishing spots are not going to be as obvious. You’ll need to scout the lake for coves, shoals, and dropoffs. These critical zones provide a grocery store of food for these lake trout and should be your main focus.
In great conditions with clear water and blue skies, you might be able to do some sight fishing. Although, you have to keep your eyes peeled for water activity such as a fish jumping or rolling. Birds swooping down on the water is also a good indicator of heavy insect activity and you should pack up and head over there.
How To Fly Fish Stillwater Flies
Fly fishing lakes is all about the dropper rigs you set up below either an indicator or a hopper pattern. Your main job is judging the depth of which you need your flies. Typically, you should tie your first fly on a few feet below your indicator on a 9-foot leader. The rule of thumb is the colder the water temperature the deeper the trout will be feeding.
Adjust your leader accordingly to account for the depth.
If you have some streamers or leeches on your dropper rig you will want to give it some movement by doing a strip retrieve just like you would with any other streamer. You can give your nymph flies some movement too by doing a slow retrieve -- like a hand crawl.
Other than that, let your flies get down deep and wait. Eventually, that pod of trout will circle back around and your indicator will disappear below the water.
6 Favorite Flies For Stillwater
Mini Leech
Mini Leeches are essential for stillwater. Lakes support a diverse ecosystem with large populations of leeches in all sorts of colors. Have a variety of beaded and non-beaded leeches in black, maroon, and dark olive. Now these leeches are rather small and flies in size #10 to #12 should do the trick. Woolly Buggers are also a great substitute for these slender leech patterns.
Amy’s Ant
Amy's Ant is an excellent dry fly for a hopper-dropper rig. It has plenty of flash and floats well even in choppy water. Rather than have just an ordinary indicator, you can toss this terrestrial fly out there and get some dry fly action instead.
JuJu Chironomid Blood
Chironomids are a major food source of lake trout in the summer months. These large pupae are all over the place in open water and drive trout nuts! It's best to have a wide array of chironomids in all sorts of sizes and colors.
Hare's Ear Nymphs are just as effective in stillwater as they are in streams and rivers. Their dull colors and general buggy appearance makes it easy to imitate mayfly nymphs, caddis pupae, midge larvae, etc.
Pheasant Tail Nymphs in smaller sizes are a great fly pattern for all bodies of water. And it's absolutely an effective dropper fly behind a buoyant hopper pattern.
A staple of a trout's diet is always going to consist of midge larva, which makes Zebra Midges a must. In larger sizes you can easily imitate the jumbo chironomids you find everywhere in lakes. Carry a variety of large size #14 to #12 zebra midges in olive, red, and black.
Soft hackle flies are a little known secret to a select few in the fly fishing community. But once you know exactly how to fish them and when, they become a staple fly in your fly box.
There are have been countless times where I would've have gone home without a single catch under my belt. It is on these particular nights that trout are responding to extremely specific insect behaviors that aren't easily represented with a simple dry fly cast or drifting a nymph. These trout were exploding at the surface chasing down caddis pupae and not taking dry flies. More often than not, trout only key in on flies that imitate the exact upward movement pattern of caddis pupae racing to the surface, which is rather easy to replicate by swinging a soft hackle wet fly.
The basic way to fish a soft hackle fly is to swing it across the currents to give it that upward movement trout love, which you can read more about here. On the other hand, you can include these incredibly buggy flies within your multi-fly nymphing rigs or cast to upstream trout like you would as a dry fly.
Nick Nicklas produced this excellent blue wing olive emerger with soft hackles for a pulsating movement. On cloudy days with warm weather, we notice a surge of blue-winged olive activity and trout become more comfortable coming out of their usual pockets for easy pickings. We'll target the ends of slow-moving pools or riffles for the trout that sip up the cripples or struggling emergers.
When other flies fail, this soft hackle pattern has an uncanny way of surpassing our expectations. While it can be swung through pocket water and deep pools, the Caddis Soft Hackle is most effectively fished either below an indicator whether it be a foam strike indicator or a buoyant dry fly.
Dusty's Black Soft Hackle seems to excel more than any other soft hackle pattern we attempt on overcast days and low-light conditions. The black body perfectly contrasts the sky and trout appear to notice. Not to mention, this is an excellent pattern when mayfly hatches are rampant.
We love to include this olive pattern into our nymphing rigs on days when blue-winged olives duns are apparent on the surface. Trout will often ignore these freshly hatched BWO duns on top and target the freely drifting nymphs below.
This barbless wet fly is a great prospecting pattern when you're not exactly sure what exactly trout are favoring today. It has just enough flash and movement to give the impression of a mayfly nymph or caddis larva struggling in the current.
This pattern is deadly in the New England states before the Sulphur duns begin to emerge and nymphs are incredibly active alone the stream bottom. As they begin to hatch you'll see trout taking nymphs just below the surface and ignore the already emerged duns on top. This is the time to swing this pattern down-and-across currents or include it near the top of your nymphing rigs.
The Partridge Hare's Ear Soft Hackle is an extremely versatile and buggy wet fly that will imitate nearly any insect hatch. We love including this soft hackle within our wet-fly rig near the top and in a smaller size to imitate the common daytime midge hatches and reoccurring caddis hatches.
Tricky fish that wouldn’t take duns or adults off the top, will find it difficult to resist this soft hackle emerger. This particular pattern has little weight, which helps keep it in that strike zone for emerging mayflies.
Trout love to key in on emerging caddis flies. You’ll know when this is happening because trout will literally be rocketing out of the water in pursuit of caddis pupae that are racing to the top. The only way to catch fish during this time is to imitate a rapidly moving caddis emerger swimming to the top by swinging this pattern with other soft hackle flies.
Few things beat soft hackles when trout are exploding at the surface. Sure, beaded nymphs do well, but when trout refuse to feed close to the bottom and keep their eyes up only wet flies will do. This BWO soft hackle fly pattern is a great blue-winged olive fly for swinging through runs.
